A Step Back in Time - 12th Century Beget

My first trip to Spain was full of so many magical moments. On one of our afternoons, Emily, Evan's stepmom, drove us to Beget (bay-zhet). The drive alone from Cadaques to Beget was magical in itself. We passed this strange medieval town, Castellfollit de la Roca (crazy castle of the rock), perched on the top of a slice of basalt rock jutting out between two rivers, the Fluvia and Toronell Rivers. We passed another small medieval town, Oix, a place we’d love to go back to and spend some time. Then we started driving up through the narrow winding road into the Alta Gorrotxa area of the Pyrenees Mountains where we would get periodic glimpses of some snow topped mountains in the distance. I half expected to see a cow along the road but didnt. I'm also always keeping my eye out for wild boars as well. But again, no such luck, yet. Along the way Emily shared stories she and Lee would hike to this village when it was still an isolated village, before the road was built in 1980.

Rock built homes in Beget

As we started to come back down one of the mountain ridges through a series of switchback turns, a small parking lot appeared just on the edge of the little medieval town of Beget. We stepped right back into the 12th century and meandered along the pathway back to our destination, El Forn Hostal, at the end of the village road. El Forn serves elevated rustic (is that a thing? It is now.) traditional foods like rabbit with figs, pig trotters with chestnuts, duck with pear, and escargot. When we were chatting with friends the day before they highly recommended the Catalan style escargot. Which we did. One of the best meals of my life. Chef’s Kiss. I also recommend the crema Catalan or the ice cream. 

Interior of an old home, now a gift shop

Stone streets and buildings of Beget

Outdoor dining at El Forn

Sunroom dining area of El Forn, overlooking the Torrent dels Trulls river

Catalan style escargot

House specialty flan with coffee and baileys

After lunch we wandered in the public park alongside the river below the restaurant and then back through the village. You can plan longer hikes from Beget or nearby hiking. We haven’t caught the church during open hours yet. It’s left such an impression on us that we went back again on a more recent trip to Spain with my son. He’ll also give the adventure including the food high marks. 

On that trip, we added driving into Castellfollit and walking out the farthest point lording over the two rives below. It was a breathtaking view and if we had planned better I would have liked to have hiked around a bit more and stopped for a coffee or dessert or glass of wine and just taken in the town a little more.

Alley in Castelllfoillet

I’ve noticed that one thing Spain does well is informational signs about the history of towns and landmarks, so be sure to check in on a few of them along your side quests.

If you’ve been to Beget or visit, please let us know what you think of it and if it was worth the drive.

(You can might also want to check out the bridge at Besalu, we’ll have to do that and more time in Oix, and more hiking next time!)

If you want to visit inside the church check the times before heading out. During the summer it’s open on weekdays between 11 and 1 and 3-7 on weekends. It’s about a two hour drive, so, wake up and have coffee in town or on the terrace and then head out to the north.

You can plan stops at Castellfoillet and Oix (pronounced oy-sh) or if you're the hiking, mountain biking type, plan a route that will include Beget and enjoy it's offerings, perhaps at the end of your activity.